Syncmaster 305t Drivers
I own a Samsung Syncmaster 305t and it is capable to go to 2560x1800 resolution. When I connected the dual-link DVI cable to my AMD Radeon HD 7800 Series Graphics Card, It can only display 1280x800. Whatever resolution higher then 1280x800 it will not display. Syncmaster 305t. Samsung SyncMaster 305T. CNET may get a commission from these offers. This Samsung inch sycmaster has syncmaster 305t ability to support a wide variety of graphic cards, thus making it an ideal choice for gamers. Degrees from side to side and syncmaster 305t to below from which a screen can be viewed without loss of quality. Welcome to Samsung Sign up & get 10% off Sign up and get 10% off your first order of $100 or more! Shop Samsung.com to find the best tech at the best prices and recieve news on our latest technology and exclusive offers.
I recently upgraded from Windows XP to Windows 7 Ultimate. Immediately upon upgrade, the maximum resolution of my Samsung Syncmaster 305T monitors went from 1920 x 1080 to 1280 x 800. Neither NVIDIA control panel nor Windows will 'allow' a resolution higher than 1280 x 800 now. Of course, I have the same high end NVIDIA graphics cards and the same monitors; however, a change/upgrade in the OS forced a lower resolution in the same monitors. I've recently added other monitors and Windows allows then to be 1920 x 1080. In fact, the 305T monitors have a higher native resolution than even 1920 x 1080. I had contacted Microsoft Windows support after the OS upgrade and they couldn't help.
Any assistance would be helpful. My graphics cards are NVIDIA QUADRO NVS 450 and NVIDIA QUADRO FX 560.
Thank you for your time. Timothy McGarvey.
I built my first computer about 3 years ago, everything worked great, no issues with anything, then within the past couple months I have been getting artifacts and blanking out on my 30' primary monitor (I have 2 other 19', one on each side, running off my second video card). Below are some of my computer specs/hardware: -Primary Monitor: Samsung 305t 30' monitor (used at max res on DVI-D) -2 secondary 19' monitors (estimate at least 5 years old each) -Graphics cards: HIS H489FP1G Radeon HD 4890 Turbo+ 1GB 256-bit XFX HD-489X-ZSFC Radeon HD 4890 1GB 256-bit The HIS is typically the one running the 30' -Motherboard: ASUS Rampage Formula -CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 Yorkfield (2.83 GHz) -Win 7 64 bit professional -Power Supply: Cooler Master RS-A00-EMBA 1000W Observations: I cannot find a pattern to make the problems appear. Many times it is horizontal blue lines across part of the screen (typically the black parts in my background). I have seen different configurations of this, sometimes lots of vertical lines when shutting down (right before it moves to the shutdown 'splashscreen').
Sometimes it is other colors, red, green. Other times the picture drops out completely for a second or two then comes back. This sometimes goes away after a short while on its own, and sometimes I restart it and they are gone.
This has happened when I turn on my system for the first time after being completely off for the night (I shut my monitors completely off with the switched wall outlet, the power supply typically has power to it). This has also happened after several hours of trouble free use. And it has also not had issues for days or weeks at a time. The problem will persist when switching videocards, but only with the big monitor. The two other monitors have never had any problems with display.
I am not overclocking the cards, they are at default and catalyst shows them running without issue and around 60C I have an older laptop that I hook up to the monitor and though it is not running at full 2560x1600 resolution, there are no lines that appear (only limited testing). Any suggestions to narrow down the culprit? And of course drivers have been uninstalled and then updated. Any help would be appreciated! The monitor is under warranty for about a month or so, but I do not want to go through the nightmare that so many others have had to based on their reviews.
That being said, if the monitor is at fault, I want to send it back before warranty is up! Additional Notes: About a month ago I purchased a new DVI-D cable, and it.seemed. to help the problem, but they came back intermittently a week or so after. This is typically not a daily issue, though the past two days have seemed to be worse than previously. Additionally, I have posted a several minute video for those who care, I switch video cards after the flashing persists for a while, and then there is a few blue horizontal lines across the screen near the end of the clip. Later, after the camera was off, the screen flashed a few times again (on the second card). This leads me to believe it is not the video cards.
What are your thoughts? Side note: I usually have the cables screwed in, and I realize many people do not advise hot-swapping monitor, this problem was happening before doing either of these. I think it might be due to one of the following issues: -Monitor is going bad (though not sure why it would not produce the same artifacts on the other computer, possibly because it was at much lower resolution?) -drivers are causing some issues (why would the other two screens not show the same problems?
-Motherboard has some issues perhaps?? (I haven't seen any problems in the screen while booting, but perhaps something fishy is going on with the circuitry that is causing some issues?
Doesn't seem likely but throwing it out there) -Problems from my power supply, capacitors perhaps? Came with my case, and about 3 years old.
Voltages seemed within range, no other issues (such as self shutdown) noticed Thanks in advance and let me know if I can clarify anything. 'Samsung 305t 30' monitor' Samsung 305t Max resolution ( it's 'Optimal' or 'Native' resolution, at which the display looks best set to) 2560 x 1600 pixels at 60 Hz As in, ONLY at 60 Hz. What vertical refresh rate do you have it set to? If you have that set higher than 60 Hz, if you get a display, you will probably get video symptoms and doing that can DAMAGE the monitor!!! If you have loaded the specific drivers for the 305t, when you RIGHT click on a blank part of your main desktop screen, and choose Personalize - Display Settings, for the display icon for the 305t, it should show Samsung 305t or similar on (the name of the display adapter.) If you do NOT see that, then your monitor is probably using Plug n Play monitor drivers, and you can set settings that your monitor does NOT support. When Windows is using the specific drivers for the monitor model, by default, Windows will only show you settings that the monitor model supports, however, it's possible to over-ride that and in that case it's possible to choose settings your monitor was not designed to use. Whatever computer you connect the monitor to, you must have NOT set the monitor to settings in Windows that it wasn't designed to be set to.
Doing that can produce video symptoms that it wouldn't otherwise produce, or even DAMAGE the monitor's circuits or display. Thanks for the awesome reply! Yes, definitely always been set at 60Hz, there are no other options to set it at anyway.
I have no easy way to test the monitor at full resolution on another computer or video card. Voltages are within 10% both by using CPUID Hardware monitor and a DMM on a free lead. 12v is at 11.43 on the CPUID. I did not pull my monitor apart to physically inspect the caps but when I was turning it, the monitor shut off. Throught that was wierd and realized the power plug (which hangs upside down) had loosened just enough to disconnect. Plugged it all the way in. All day today, the screen has been a champ, no problems, very frustrating, I wish it would be definitely working or not, but not such a random occurrence.
I wonder if the plug being loose would have anything to do with the problems. The screen flashing could conceivably be caused by this, though I did not hear arcing when it was flashing before, and do not recall moving anything to make it stop flashing. I do not have an answer as to why a loose power cable could be the cause of the blue artifacts on the screen though.
Samsung 30 Inch Monitor
I also thought it weird that the large screen, especially in the light parts, flicker when recorded (like my you tube post). The other screens do not even though they are at the same frequency (60 Hz). Could that be a symptom of monitor going bad, or backlight getting old? 'Yes, definitely always been set at 60Hz, there are no other options to set it at anyway.' If you have loaded the specific drivers for the 305t, when you RIGHT click on a blank part of your main desktop screen, and choose Personalize - Display Settings, for the display icon for the 305t, it should show Samsung 305t or similar on (the name of the display adapter.) If that's what you see, then there is only one Hz setting it can be set to by default, whether you know where to check or set it or not If you do NOT see that, then your monitor is probably using Plug n Play monitor drivers. Where you set the vertical refresh rate - the Monitor's Hz - is different in Vista and Windows 7 than it was in XP and previous - I don't recall at the moment where I found that in Vista - it's probably in the same place in Windows 7. (In XP and previous that's checked or set by clicking on Advanced button on the Settings page of the Display Properties and choosing the Monitor tab.
'Voltages are within 10% both by using CPUID Hardware monitor and a DMM on a free lead. 12v is at 11.43 on the CPUID.' Most bios versions show the current voltages, fan rpms, and temps in the bios somewhere. They've usually been tweaked in the bios version's code to make them as accurate as possible. Third party utilities such as CPUID make assumptions and are often not as accurate - go by the reading in the bios if there is a difference.
The accuracy of a DMM varies, the more the retail price of it, the more likely the reading is actually accurate - if it's a cheaper DMM, go by the reading in the bios if there is a difference. When you do have one or more failing electrolytic capacitor on the monitor's board(s), you can have all sorts of symptoms. The LG LCD monitor I repaired had these symptoms. for a long time - months - it behaved as if there was a problem with the power switch or it's circuits.
Sometimes there was no video when you booted, or the display did not appear after the computer had activated it's blank (no display) screen screen saver and you did something that should have restored the display. Switching the power button off/on always restored the video display for a while. then the video would briefly come on, then no display - switching the power button off/on always restored the video display.
then shortly after that, no video no matter what the owner or I did. The display worked fine on other monitors. The owner and I had nothing to lose so I took apart the monitor.
Most LCD monitors have just a few screws that hold the front onto the back, and the front mask of the display is held on with many hidden plastic tabs and matching notches at the joint - you must carefully insert something very thin and wider, such as a small flat metal tool for spreading caulk etc., in order to unlatch all those tabs without mangling the two pieces at the joint. (Similar applies to CRT monitors.) It turned out it had two boards, one the power cord socket connected to, and another one. Once all the tabs were unlatched I had to carefully unplug two or three tiny connectors for cables to the display assembly, before the front and back could be fully separated, one on the display assembly, then the other(s) on the second board.
The second board had an obviously opened up top and evidence of leakage on the top of one capacitor, and another one of the same brand and mfd capacity (different size, voltage rating) that looked okay. I removed that board and replaced both of those capacitors and the monitor works fine. I used two high quality (low ESR) Panasonic capacitors of the larger of the two sizes - there was no problem with installing a larger one where the smaller one had been - and it wasn't critical whether I made larger solder blobs (which I did) where they were located. If you don't want to tackle that, a 30' monitor would be expensive to replace, and it would be worth it to pay a fee and have a technician take a look at it and repair it if that's what's wrong with it. '.the power plug (which hangs upside down) had loosened just enough to disconnect. Plugged it all the way in.
All day today, the screen has been a champ.' 'I wonder if the plug being loose would have anything to do with the problems.' 'I did not hear arcing when it was flashing before.'
Yes that could cause at least some of your problems. An LCD monitor requires very little power, so you may not near arcing if it occurred. 'I do not have an answer as to why a loose power cable could be the cause of the blue artifacts on the screen though. ' It wouldn't be, but one or more bad capacitors could be. 'I also thought it weird that the large screen, especially in the light parts, flicker when recorded (like my you tube post). The other screens do not even though they are at the same frequency (60 Hz).'
Syncmaster 305t Drivers Windows 10
When the other screens are much smaller, or if the brightness was higher on the 30', you would notice it more on the 30', and that would vary greatly depending on the make and model as well. That also depends on what settings you used when you made the recording. As I recall the human eye can't see flickering when the frame rate exceeds 25fps or so, so you shouldn't see flickering a 60 vertical frames per second.
However, the higher the vertical refresh rate, the better video motion looks - that's why there are LCD monitors with 120 Hz and 240 Hz vertical refresh rates. 'Could that be a symptom of monitor going bad, or backlight getting old?' Maybe, and not likely, unless you have symptoms you haven't mentioned. You usually do not have that problem with a Samsung monitor until it has been used a lot for over 5 years. I have a 19' monitor that was used heavily by a disabled friend for over 5 years and it's backlight and it's brightness is still okay. It was on 24/7 for about 3 years, then I changed power settings so the monitor display turned off when she wasn't using it, it was still on 24/7, she used it most of each day, including for a TV card when she was in bed. All backlights for conventional LCD displays are CCFLs - Cold Cathode Florescent Lamps - they burnt out eventually just like any other florescent lamp.
Samsung Syncmaster 305t Drivers
Whatsapp desktop windows xp. Symptoms -the display becomes dimmer over time - eventually you can't increase it's brightness anymore, and it's dimmer than you want it to be all the time - you eventually notice a constant overall tint to the display, e.g. Pink, that you can't get rid of by fiddling with settings. the end stages - the display comes on when you first boot, then it becomes very dim - if you turn up the brightness to the max you may be able to see very faint inages, but only some of them - eventually you have no display at all. Note that I didn't mention artifacts or flickering or lines. Lines that are always there are probably a symptom of a defective or damaged LCD assembly. Artifacts and lines that come and go could be symptoms of a problem with electrolytic capacitors or other circuit problems, probably on one or more boards external to the display assembly.